Doing a basic brew

Setting up your kegerator

How to bottle from your brewkeg

WilliamsWarn YouTube channel

Access to various helpful tutorials on all WilliamsWarn equipment.


Yes, you can use anyone’s kits. Obviously we can’t be responsible for the quality.

You just need to see if the yeast clears well.

Avoid too much sugar. Therefore we suggest replacing 500g of our DME with 500g glucose sugar – not standard white sugar (sucrose).

Yes. You can brew them to 5 or 6 US gallons size (19-23 litres) in your own brew set-up. 

What we mean is that the beer is the same quality standard as a professional brewery selling beers to make a business. ‘Quality’ as in no off-flavours, no microbiological infections and no unwanted haze.

Apart from beers you can also make ciders, ginger beer, mead and sparkling wine.

Add water, close the lid, cool it, attach a gas bottle to the unit and apply pressure.  The water will become carbonated over a few days.

Flavour can be added after carbonation via the clarification port.

It can keep about 1 year after which point the flavours may age.

From a health point of view it would last years as beer is a safe product due to its alcohol content and hop components are anti-bacterial.

Beer ages through oxygen pick up and non refridgeration.  The oxygen pickup in the brewkeg is minimal as there are no beer transfers.  Also by keeping the beer cold in the kegorator after fermentation makes it even more resistant to aging. 

The BrewKeg50 make 50 litres which is approx. 88 pints

The BrewKeg25 makes 25 litres which approx. 44 pints

The BrewKeg12.5 makes 12.5 litres which approx. 22 pints

To avoid waiting for 7 days for your next brew, bottle or keg your brew and get on with the next batch.

You can bottle a batch from the BrewKeg25 in 30 minutes using the WilliamsWarn counter-pressure bottler.  It is easy to use and purges air out of the bottles to reduce oxidation and also provide a back pressure so that when you fill the bottles, there is no loss of carbonation. 

You can also connect a BrewKeg and fill a cornelius keg with minimal oxygen pickup and no loss of CO2. The keg then keeps in a fridge or kegerator.

If you want your beer fizzier, raise the pressure on your regulator slightly.  Increasing the carbonation level is not instantaneous, you will have to leave it for a day or 2.  You can speed up the process by giving the keg a very light shake or roll as this will help more of the liquid come in contact with the CO2. 

To decarbonate, disconnect your gas line and continue dispensing the liquid as normal until either it is no longer pouring foam or the flow stops. Once you get to this point, connect your Co2 line back up to the keg to give it some pressure.

Yes.  The pressure will take slightly longer to build right up as there is extra headspace at the top of the Brewkeg.

Typical Home brewers have a longer process because they make flat beer that then needs to be carbonated. Commercial breweries don’t do this. Homebrew is different to large scale brewing in this respect…until now. The WilliamsWarn system is similar to commercial breweries in respect to not taking any extra time to carbonate the beer; it just makes carbonated beer in the first place.   No bottling beer and waiting 6 weeks for carbonation. Nor kegging flat beer and having to gas up.

For the 7 day process we use dry ale yeasts that ferment very well and which starts within a few hours.

  • 3 days fermentation with temperature controlled – carbonation occurs in the pressure vessel after 1 day. No bottling or kegging required.
  • 1 day warm maturation. The yeasts we use make no off-flavours that would need to be reduced through extended maturation time.
  • 1/2 day cooling and keeping cold ready for clarification
  • 2 1/2 days clarification by adding a special finings agent.

Consume on Day 7.

Some lager breweries have long maturation times. That’s true. For example some cellar beer cold for 3 weeks. But that’s not a rule anyone needs to stick too. Those breweries are old breweries that have a tradition they like to stick to because it’s a tradition. These breweries have been around hundreds of years and that’s how they cleared their beers in the 1800’s in barrels in caves before modern clarification agents were developed. It was also a seasonal law to not make beer over the summer months when grain harvest was happening, so ageing beer for months was a tradition for that reason too. That’s all. Many modern breweries have a 2 day cold storage period just like us. And that’s not for maturation of flavour, it’s to form chill haze (a protein-tannin complex) that gets filtered out later to make the beer clearer. You only need a long maturation if you have an off-flavour. But why use a yeast that makes an off-flavour? Use a yeast that ferments fast, flocculates well and finishes clean. Then chill the beer as soon as you can. Beer ages. It’s like bread, it should be drunk fresh.

Use the sediment bottle under the tank. The dry hop flavour is evident after 1-2 days.

WilliamsWarn brewkegs make beer in a very efficient time which are not oxidised from transfers and therefore are extremely fresh.

Time is saved through carbonating during fermentation. WilliamsWarn close that tank after yeast pitching so that it’s a pressure vessel from the beginning and does not need to be transferred for carbonation.  Every transfer damages beer. Less transfers makes better beer.

The yeast starts to ferment a few hours after pitching and 24 hours later is all carbonated. The yeast has absolutely no problem fermenting under 2 bar pressure. 

WilliamsWarn extract is also “all-grain”, it’s just had an extra evaporation step after the brewhouse part of the brewing process to concentrate it into ‘concentrated wort’. Both methods require mashing, lautering, boiling, whirlpooling so they are not different.

Some homebrewers turn their noses up at malt extract. It’s for several reasons. 1) It wasn’t good in the past 2) It ages during storage 3) It makes beer making too easy and it should be hard work!

All-grain brewers are welcome to make their own wort to add to this machine as this invention is really focussed on fermentation onwards and improving on the current homebrew methods, particularly the elimination of a secondary process step to carbonate the beer and the poor temperature control.